Bunking is the process of adding decorative patterns with tools heated over a naked flame.
Building the Footwear
Burnishing is the process of making footwear look distinguished and aged. Using a Burnishing Mop in circular movements it creates a marbled, shaded look to the leather.
A clicker is a craftsperson who cuts the hide for a shoe, judging which direction to cut the leather in, and how the piece of hide they are working with will stretch to fit a foot perfectly when creating our footwear.
Closing is a highly skilled operation and requires years of experience. The term is used for the sewing together of the various pattern pieces to create and close the shoe upper
A final inspection is made before the shoes are laced, wrapped in cotton cloth and together with their Tricker’s shoe bags, packed into their box for dispatch to the customer.
The edges of the soles and heels are trimmed and buffed to produce a smooth finish. This is a freehand operation, requiring high levels of skill and years of experience.
In a Goodyear welt, the outer sole is sewn to the welt, the cavity between the welt and insole is then filled with a layer of cork, which moulds to the wearer’s foot, providing insulation and comfort. The cork is then covered with a leather mid-sole for protection.
A last is a three-dimensional model of a foot which allows for a shoe to be shaped around it. Lasts are used when designing or constructing a shoe and come in a variety of styles, referred to by their number.
Lock-stitch uses an upper and a lower thread which combine - or lock - together as they pass through the leather of a shoe, creating a stronger overall stitch.
In the making department, a wooden shank is added to the sole, providing support to the shoe. A layer of cork then fills the cavity created between welt and insole, providing flexibility and insulation, and moulding itself to the shape of the foot during wear, enhancing comfort and fit of the shoe.
A soft sheen that develops through use and exposure on the surface of the leather which provides a character, a personality, to the product.
In the shoe room a Tricker’s sock liner is fitted to the shoes for comfort. The shoes are cleaned, and various creams and wax polishes generously applied to dress the uppers and create a patina.
Skiving leather is the painstaking process of thinning leather, where only the outer edges are thinned, to achieve the thickness that is required.