Anatomy of a Shoe

An apron is a piece of leather material that covers the top of the vamp around the perimeter, almost like an apron that you might wear.

The word "brogue" was first used to describe a form of outdoor, country walking shoe in the early twentieth century, traditionally worn by men. A distinctly British shoe, the Bourton brogue instantly adds an air of sophistication to virtually any ensemble.

The inventor of this style of boot was Queen Victoria’s shoemaker, who designed it in the mid-18th-Century and was originally called a Dealer Boot. Her Majesty had requested a pair of boots without laces that she could wear while riding.

With several theories regarding its origin, the Derby shoe can be identified by its “open” lacing system, meaning that its eyelet tabs are stitched on top of the shoe’s vamp.

An eyelet is a hole in the upper of a shoe or boot through which the laces are threaded. Eyelets are added in the closing room of our factory and are added at the same time as patterning and rivets.

In a Goodyear welt, the outer sole is sewn to the welt, the cavity between the welt and insole is then filled with a layer of cork, which moulds to the wearer’s foot, providing insulation and comfort. The cork is then covered with a leather mid-sole for protection. 

In a traditional bellows tongue, the tongue of the boot is attached directly to the upper along the opening where the laces run, rather than being a mostly free-floating piece of material attached only at the bottom, as in most footwear.

The material that is inside of a shoe and is in contact with the foot when the shoe is being worn. The woven rib on the insole is also used to secure the upper as it is connected with small nails and staples to hold the shoe together until the welt is attached. 

This style of lacing is mainly used on our Country boots for the support that it offers. The ladder-like appearance helps lock the lace in place, which is good if you don’t want your laces to loosen over the course of the day.

The lining of a shoe surrounds the foot from all sides and its job is to keep your foot warm and dry whilst optimally regulating the moisture balance inside the shoe.

The mid-sole - also known as the ’through’ - is a mostly piece of leather that is placed over the layer of cork which is in the cavity between the welt and insole.

The history of the humble Monkey Boot dates back to World War 2, worn as standard issue by the Czechoslovakian army, their durability, practicality, and the fact they were inexpensive made them the ideal boot for the foot soldier.

An Oxford shoe is defined by its “closed” lacing system, meaning that its eyelet tabs are stitched underneath the vamp (i.e., the top) of the shoe so that they aren’t visible. Oxfords are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. The shoes are named Oxfords after Oxford University.

The loafer style dates back to Norway in the early 1930s. Taking inspiration from the moccasin shoes worn by native Americans in North America, and the simple slip-ons on the feet of Norwegian fishermen, the first design was born.

Sock lining is the inner part of the footwear that covers the insole (footbed) of our footwear. You touch this part with your foot when wearing shoes.

The Tramping boot is a part of Tricker’s Heritage; made traditionally for pursuits in the British countryside. It’s based on a boot design from 1926.

The upper is the part of the shoe that covers the toes, the top, sides and back of the heel. Uppers are normally made from several parts of material, usually leather or suede, which are stitched together by expert craftspeople.

The welt is a leather strip that joins the insole to the upper to which the sole is subsequently attached by stitching. Because welted shoes are sewn together rather than glued, skilled craftsmen can dismantle, repair and refurbish them. 

The shank is an internal part of the shoe which goes between the insole and outsole and provides stability to the shoe.